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what kind of jeep we talkin bout here?
have you replaced the PCV valve?
is it possible to install a speedy sleeve on that area of the crank and then a new seal?
RMS and groove in the crank... HELP!
Hey all,
So, I've replaced my rear main not once, but twice with a felpro double lipped seal. It still leaks. My confidence is very high in terms of completing the job correctly. The double lip is installed facing forward, which I believe is correct, rtv on the tabs and a lot of rtv on the bearing cap. Both times I removed the lower bearing cap there was a very noticable groove in the crankshaft. I've read that this is most likely the cause of the problem. In my opinion replacing the rms a third time is a waste of time.
The jeep has about 100,000 miles and has been a trail only rig for the last 3-4 years, hence, it has been run almost exclusively in very dusty environments, which I believe contributed to the groove. So after a long lead in here is my question:
I've been considering an additive like Lucas Stop-Leak to get the seal to swell a little out of spec. Has anyone had luck trying this? Or is it best just to buy a drip pan and live with it? (Jeep also has new valve cover, VC gasket, and oil pan gasket... Don't know if an additive would negatively impact those fresh gaskets...)
Thanks!
what kind of jeep we talkin bout here?
have you replaced the PCV valve?
is it possible to install a speedy sleeve on that area of the crank and then a new seal?
USFS volunteer, Sandia Ranger District.
Sorry about that! Here's some more info:
2000 TJ with a 4.0L. Put new CCV and Breather in with new valve cover. Both tubes to the elbows are clear...
At your recommendation I looked into the Speedi Sleeve and it looks like a solution, but it looks like I would have to pull the crank, which I think would mean pulling the engine... I'm trying to avoid that until its absolutely neccessary. Is something like that worth pulling the engine over or should I just run it until rebuild time?
Did some more research... Lucas won't swell the seals, it's 100% petrol. I just added some for kicks, increased the oil pressure slightly which was interesting. I'll post the results as to if it stops the leak or not.
Any other suggestions are welcome, though!
atf will swell the seals. put a 1/2 quart in
USFS volunteer, Sandia Ranger District.
I have run Jeep/AMC engines for years and the first time you replace the rear seals is the last and only time it will work unless you ever so lightly nick the main. When this happens the only easy fix is the Speedi Sleeve and yes you need to drop the crank. This is much cheaper and easier than you might think. DON'T WAST YOUR TIME ON THE BOTTLED SNAKE OILS!!!!
Bearman,
Thanks for the info, do you know of where I can find the part/procedure? I looked into the sleeves but I keep being told that the back of the crank where the flywheel mounts is flanged and therefore a sleeve won't work. Here is a picture of the crank in this vehicle. I have found a crank repair sleeve for the harmonic balancer area but not the back. I would really LIKE it to work so if my info is bad please let me know.
I also found this bulletin that pertains to this vehicle from the Engine Builder's Association, which is not good for my TJ bretheren, but I'll post it here so they can read it for themselves. Apparently TJ owners with this VIN should follow this procedure whenever reinstalling or installing an engine:
"Rear Main Seal Leakage, Preventative Measure For
1997-2005 Chrysler 4.0L VIN S Engines
The AERA Technical Committee offers the following preventative measure for 1997-2005 Chrysler 4.0L Jeep engines. This information applies to engines using a standard shift transmission built prior to 09/02/04 only.
There have been occasional reports of rear main seal leakage on certain vehicles using the above combination. Closer inspection of suspect vehicles may reveal the cause of the engine oil seepage past the rear main seal is due to the accumulation of dirt and debris around the outside of the rear main seal. This accumulation may act as an abrasive while rotating on the crankshaft and damage the seal and surface.
A spacer plate is used to mate the transmission bellhousing to the back of the engine. The spacer plate has a slot machined into it at the 12 o'clock position. A small opening may occur as a result of the spacer slot when the spacer is mated between the engine and transmission bellhousing. The narrow spacer opening at the top may allow small size debris to accumulate around the outside of the rear main crankshaft seal. Vehicles used in dusty off road situations have been more severely affected.
To prevent this type of condition, seal the area at the time of engine installation on remanufactured engines. Chrysler/Jeep has suggested this type of repair after the rear seal and or crankshaft has been repaired by applying a liberal bead of RTV sealer to the area. Make sure to thoroughly clean the area before applying the sealer to area 2 in the Figure 1 below.
The AERA Technical Committee"
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