Thread: Scrambler Build Questions
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Scrambler Build Questions
OK - the time is drawing near to start building this thing..
What I have now:
* Scrambler Body and Roll Bar (good shape)
* 1/2 Hard Tps and Buulkhead
* Scrambler Frame (almost cracked in half)
* Chevy 350 motor (84cj7lt1- I may need your help with Budlong to see what can be done here)
* TPI intake parts
* Aluminum Radiator
* Hedman Jeep conversion headers
* AA Conversion bellhousing, centerforce clutch
* NV4500 Tranny
* 4.3 ATLAS T-Case
* ProRock60 Rear
* H1 Rims
My initial thoughts for the build:
Motor: Stroked to 383, use TPI intake parts and Megasquirt II for fuel and spark
Headers, Radiator, Bell Housing, Clutch: OK as is
Tranny: OK as is
T-Case: OK as is
Klune-V: Maybe??
Rear axle: Detroit Soft Lock or ARB, 4.88 gears
Front Axle: Undecided ion type, ARB, 4.88 Gears
Frame: Chuck the cracked OEM frame and get aftermarket frame: TDK, Matkins (still in business?), or other?
Rims: Recenter H1 rims for proper offset and bolt pattern.
Tires: Probably some Interco product, in the 37 to 40 range
Body: Line inside of tub, paint JD green or JD yellow
Front Suspension: SOA on RE SOA springs, full width spring perch conversion, extended front shock towers. (I really don't want to have to mess with track bars, etc up front)
Rear Suspension: Triangulated 4-link on coils or coil-overs.
Armor: Flat Skid, Rocker Skids, Rear Corner Armor, something extra to protect the long CJ-8 rear overhang. In the front, not sure on flat fenders or some sort of high clearance set up.
Steering: Hi-Steer with some sort of hydro assist (looking for some input here)
Brakes: Definitely upgraded (looking for some input here)
Comments - Critiques - Suggestions?
I have moderate fab skills and would like to build what I can. But, given my skills and time available, I'm sure after market purchases will be required.... I have been out of the Jeep aftermarket loop for some time now.... what manufactures shouldl I be looking at for some of these options?
Anything I am missing??
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what are your plans for the thing?
reason i ask is your choice of front leafs, and brakes. seems to me, that you should scrape up some extra pennies and link/coilover the front as well. i'm very pleased with my manual willwood brake setup on the buggy, and brians fond of his hydroboost
do you need a klune? seems you have/can have enough gear. spend the $$ on front coilovers instead
(we have nothing but rave reviews of the two klunes we own BTW)
line the bottom of the tub while you are at it.Last edited by sceep; 01-18-2010 at 10:28 AM.
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First off, you have better than "moderate" fab skills, Jay!
But I like the direction this sucker is going. I'll be interested to see the leaf front/coils or coilover rear.
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What aluminum radiator do you have? hope it is a big one or dual pass to keep a 383 cool in a Jeep.
Brakes, no doubt about it go with a hydroboost stystem. You can piece it together yourself from a junkyard or give Vanco a call for a new unit with the high flow mod for ram assist.
With the specs of a 383 motor, the weight of a built Scrambler and the tire size of 37-40s do not go with anything other than a front Dana 60. When you want to upgrade the shafts I just went with Nitro alloy shafts and their 300M joints. Quality seems decent, a good price and lifetime warranty. If you want the ultimate give RCV a call for their Dana 60 CVs ($1900!). Steering you cant go wrong with either Parts Mike arms or WFO arms with the kingpin preload bolt. Depending on how much you want to spend on hydro steering you can go with either Howe or PSC for the top of the line or West Texas Offroad for the steering box mod and a ram of your choice for lower budget.
For the rear 4 link checkout Ruff Stuff Specialties for brackets, misalignments and rod ends. I would recomend 1.25" chromoly lowers and 3/4" chromoly uppers for rod ends.
Tube flat fenders are nice but I also really like the Campbell 1 piece fiberglass hoods with built in fenders.
edit: other than a front 60 you could go with a Spider 9 including knuckles, True Hi9 diff and custom alloy shafts but that will add up quick!Last edited by Brian1; 01-18-2010 at 10:49 AM.
1942 GPW Crawler
1991 Explorer
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Harry Situations
Harry Wagner
Freelance 4WD Writing & Photography
Vehicle Features, Tech, & Trail Reports
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Thanks for the feedback Nate!
Pretty much the same as my old CJ7 except a little more trail worthy (suspension, gearing, wheelbase, motor, tires, axles) and a little more road road friendly (gearing, motor)
Well, my choice for front leafs was pretty much based on my capability. I'm not sure I can pull of a link suspension up front - there seems to be much more involved that a rear set-up.
Cool - I'll check both out.
No, I don't need it. My thought for having it was at the top end... with it, I go do 4.10s in the axles instead of 4.88s and get a little lower RPMs on the freeway - and, at the same time, get a few more gear options overall.
What does that do for me? Heat? Sound? Does the lining underneath get in the way when modifying "stuff" later down the road?
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Thanks for the feedback Brian!
It a Northern \\"All Pro\\":
http://www.absoluteradiator.com/Prod...asp?idProd=344
I hope it does the trick.
Thanks - I'll look into that. What vehicle / years should I be looking at for junk yard sourcing?
Any good build write-up links you can point me to?
Yeah, I'm leaning towards an HP 60. I'm just not sure how I want to go about it. I really like the Pro-Rock housing and the idea of having a complete axle delivered to my door. But, Dynatrac does not offer a king-pin solution - which, the more I read about it, seems to be the way to go (or the ONLY way to go if I want a behind the axle tie rod).... So, buy a ProRock housing and get it tubed elsewhere? or what?
Yikes!!
Good input - thanks!
Yeah, I'm torn here. One of the real struggles I am having is that I am partial to inner fender-wells.


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