Thread: Hydroboost Brake Install!

I was lucky enough to win a complete hydro boost system from Van at Vanco Power Brakesfor my Jeep back in November of 2005.

Before I talk about the install here are a few specs on my rig that it will be installed on:
1942 Ford GPW flat fender
38.5" tires, 3/4 ton axles with 4 wheel discs, 68 Corvette master cylinder without a booster since I couldn’t fit one under the hood and a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve on the rear line. I use YJ swinging pedals and I have a clutch master right next to the brake MC.

Here is my 'before' setup:



I took some video of before braking tests to give to Van for his use. I did it both on dirt and on pavement and the results were the same. It took me around 70' to stop going approx 20 MPH and I had trouble locking up the front tires. Obviously not the greatest braking! My rig has recently been completed and I had not had much seat time to know the brakes were that bad before I measured it.

I talked to Van to give him the specs he needed to make my system. Basic measurements such as hose length from the pump to the firewall and from the steering box to the firewall as well as the angle of fittings needed were given to him since my Jeep was a custom application. He also needed to know I used flared fittings on my pump and box and that I ran 4 wheel discs on 3/4 ton axles and hydro assist.

I then received the complete system at my door and everything looked really good. The hoses were good quality and the supplied brake hardware was nice as well.

To get started I suggest you scan over the instructions and then do a 'dry' fit and make sure all the hoses are long enough and you have all the fittings you need. Once I checked everything I placed a large piece of cardboard under the Jeep to catch the inevitable drips, puddles and spills that will occur and started work.

I disconnected the brake lines and removed the MC. I then bolted on the hydro unit loosely to the firewall. It is much easier to handle without the MC on it.



(For those of you with non-custom pedals ignore this step)
I bought my YJ pedals used and they were missing the stub used to connect the push rod to the brake pedal. My old system I just used a bolt and a rod end to provide the necessary movement. I needed to make something new to bolt the hydro boost push rod to the pedals. I thought about it for a while and came up with the easiest solution. I cut a piece of 5/8" steel rod and then chucked it up on the lathe to drill a hole the same size as the hole in my pedal for a bolt to pass through. I then cut it to length allowing for the push rod to float a little in its movement. I used washers to space it out from the pedal and then 2 more washers and then a nut to keep it all together.

After hooking up the push rod I aligned it so it was straight per the instructions then bolted it firmly in place. Next I bench bled the new master cylinder and then bolted it to the hydro boost unit. I used the supplied ~6" -3AN braided brake line to go from the new location to the proportioning valve. After some thought I decided for the other brakeline to bend a completly new one and use an adapter from the local parts store. I used 3/16" which matched the rest of my system to replace the slightly larger line I had before. I hoped this would help the fronts to lock up better. This step would not be necessary for vehicles with origional systems because Van includes 2 of the -3AN lines to connect to both stock lines.

Next I disconnected the power steering lines and hooked up the new lines with an inline filter on the low pressure hose. The system came with a length of new low-pressure hose, a 'T' and hose clamps. The plumbing turned out really clean. Here is a picture of the filter and you can see one of the clamps I used bolted to the fender to keep the hoses secured. These clamps are avaliable at local trailer or electric supply stores. Next came bleeding the system. I had some leaks which I fixed by re-tightening the fittings.

cont'd...